Friday, December 6, 2013

Altuzarra, Reed Krakoff and Rag & Bone Pre-Fall 2014

The designers are continuing to present their Pre-Fall collections in New York. Here are some of the looks from the collections of Altuzarra, Reed Krakoff and Rag & Bone

For his first pre-fall collection, Joseph Altuzarra wanted to pick up where he left off for spring: “That sentiment of ease,” he said during the small presentation in his showroom. “I was interested in comfort and how it can work with the idea of seduction.” While there were plenty of the designer’s signatures — i.e., strong-shouldered tailoring, body-skimming dresses, skirts with high side-slits — Altuzarra beautifully played up his proportions. A voluminous light gray double-faced coat with a creme lapel, for example, was worn with a sculpted cobalt blue skirt and gray top. The look was elegant and sophisticated.
“Fluidity against structure” is how Reed Krakoff described this collection. The designer has played with and evolved the concept for several seasons and here he contrasted strong mannish shoulders on jacquard tweed coats with ruching and python taping on dresses, often with asymmetric hems. One dress came in an abstract feather print with side-pleating for movement, while lightweight sweatshirts, some with surface elements like a hand-painted ponyskin front panel, added to the men’s wear feel.

Rag & Bone was inspired by early Nineties British streetwear as captured in Nigel Shafran’s “Teenage Precinct Shoppers” series that featured portraits of youth in suburban malls wearing matchy nylon tracksuits.
The look was shiny and a bit tacky then, but here the designers interpreted it subtly and with ample urban cool. Slim-fit white jogging pants with gray racing stripes were shown with a simple boxy T-shirt; a long varsity-like jacket was worn with a chic skirt in handmade lace. Though sporty, these clothes are not meant for the gym — which is just the point. 

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