Another favorite collection was that of the London label Isa Arfen Designer Serafina Sama's clothes were relatable and sophisticated, with a winning touch of the eccentric; Sama has a nuanced sense of color and material, and an intriguing way of layering strong silhouettes. Her latest collection reiterated several key shapes, such as long culottes, slouchy trenchcoats, and twisted crop tops, and elaborated other established themes in new, winter-friendly ways. A double-breasted alpaca coat, for example, echoed the slouchy cut of the trench; her signature trim pants were done in wool and a vinyl-like technical silk. There were some new ideas, too: This collection emphasized a long, lean silhouette, with pencil skirts and narrow shifts, and Sama was up to something interesting with her "denim" looks made of wool. She also made a couple of fantastic coats from colorful Steiff teddy-bear fur. At first, it was hard to see the news in this collection, because all of the development was so organic.